Archive for December, 2007
Twist….Click….NO! Flip…..YES!
December 27th, 2007 Categories: Home Fixin's, Findings and Planting
The lowly door knob. Very seldom does it take center stage except when one is ready to sell their home. Then it gets shined until it gleams.
Over several years the door knob has undertaken a small revolution. Higher end homes and now some mid-price homes have changed the door knob to a lever type in lieu of the the twist or click type.
Levers, standard in Europe for a number of years, have never been highlighted in the United States until passage of the Americans with Disability Act.
Under the guidelines of the Act, doors to public buildings must be ”usable with one hand”, without tight grasping, pinching or twisting the wrist.
Homeowners, I would suspect, if they take a step back will clearly see the advantage of a “home” lever type door knob especially when trying to open the door when carrying packages or the baby or just trying to get through the door quickly.
Those who have hand difficulties definitely will view levers for the home as far more acceptable rather than twisting a knob or pushing down on the knob.
So if you are in the market for a new door knob give some thought to the lever type. The cost is about 15% higher today and not all stores carry the lever type, but as the price comes down and as more and more homes are decorated with lever type knobs they will be looked at as the standard.
While on the subject I would like to see someone create a home doorknob that can be opened or closed via a wireless clicker as we have with automobiles. These may exist but I have not seen them. If they don’t, well someone has an opportunity.
It would help someone carrying packages, but of importance is a safety measure for people having to enter home at night. Fooling around with the keys, often times in the dark, is trying and often unsafe. The resale value of the home most certainly would be enhanced since the buyer can see the advantages of knowing that they can open the front door from the car, just like the garage, and enter the home quickly and safely.
Basic Source: Star Free Press; December 27, 2007: Author-Frank Greve.
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How Your Credit Score is Calculated.
December 17th, 2007 Categories: Buyer and Seller Knowledge Center
Fair, Isaac criteria for calculating credit scores are divided into five areas:
Payment History
Credit card payment history, retail accounts, installment loans and mortgages accounts for 35% of the total score.
Amount Owed
What is important is how many accounts have balances and how much of the total credit line is being used on credit cards and other revolving credit accounts. This accounts for 30% of the total score.
Length of Credit History
Credit history accounts for 15% of the total credit score. It is suggested that parents start their children on credit before the youngster leaves home.
Types of Credit
Types of credit takes into account the mix of installment loans, mortgages, retail accounts, credit cards and finance company accounts. This accounts for 10% of your total score.
The Rest Is Calculated by:
Salary is definitely considered but other items considered in the composite number includes:
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Education level. A person with a college degree gets more points than a high school graduate.
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Number of years you’ve lived in a single location. If you have moved around a lot, you lose points. If you have moved because of better-paying job, you can recoup some of those points if your salary has increased.
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Years spent with an employer. Scoring agencies like people who are stable. They assign more points to people who have lived in a particular place for several years or who have worked for a single employer for many years.
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Home ownership. If one owns a home you get additional points. Renters are considered more transient and less reliable for the repayment of loans.
Change is coming.
The system at times appears to be arbitrary and unfair to some but lenders insist that the scoring system is not biased or unfair to minorities but that it simply reflects overall lending histories.
With the pending FICO scoring change to be introduced in the first quarter of 2008 there may be an increase in the critisism of FICO scoreing. It is currently planned those with thin credit will be will be measured lower than those with more active credit accounts.
The added score parameters can help those who have a variety of cards, a mortgage and a car payment since as proposed these people will be graded higher. The thinking is these people can better manage credit.
The flip side is, if these individuals show that they are using most of their available credit they will be scored lower.
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Help Yourself With Some Water Conservation Tips.
December 13th, 2007 Categories: Conservation Tips For The Home Owner.
Living in Southern California we are exposed to droughts and constantly have to be tuned to water conservation measures.
Listed below are some tips to consider. In fact some of these tips will save you money.
Indoor Water Conservation Tips
General Items:
- Never pour water down the drain when there may be another use for it. Perhaps you can use it to water indoor plants or garden.
- Repair dripping faucets by replacing washers. (This is an immediate money saver). One drop per second wastes 2,700 gallons of water per year.
- Check all plumbing for leaks. Have repair by a plumber. (Another money saver).
- Retrofit all household faucets by installing aerators with flow restrictors.
- Install an instant hot water heater on your sink.
- Insulate your water pipes to reduce heat loss and prevent them from breaking.
- Insall a water-softening system only when the minerals in the water would damage your pipes (or bathroom and kitchen fixtures).
- Choose appliances that are more energy and water efficient.
Bathroom:
- Consider purchasing a low-volume toilet that uses less than half the water of older models. (Note: In many area this is a requirement but if you are re-doing the bathroom this would be something to consider).
- Install a toilet displacement device to cut down on the amount of water needed to flush the toilet. Place a one-gallon plastic jug of water into the tank to displace toilet flow. Be sure installation does not interfere with the operating parts.
- Replace your shower-head with an ultra-low-flow version.
- Place a bucket in the shower to catch excess water for watering plants.
- Avoid flushing the toilet unnecessarily. Dispose of tissues, insects, and other similar waste in the trash rather than the toilet.
- Avoid taking baths—take short showers—turn on water only to get wet and lather and then again to rinse off.
- Avoid letting the water run while brushing your teeth, washing your face, or shaving.
Kitchen:
- Operate automatic dishwashers only when they are fully loaded. Use the “light wash” feature, if available, to use less water.
- Hand was dishes by filling two containers—one with soapy water and the other with rinse water containing a small amount of chlorine bleach.
- Clean vegetables in a pan filled with water rather than running water from the tap.
- Start a compost pile as an alternate method of disposing of food waste or simply dispose of food in the garbage. (The kitchen disposal uses a lot of water when operating).
- Store drinking water in the refrigerator. Do not let the tap run while you are waiting for water to cool.
- Avoid wasting water waiting for it to get hot. Capture it for other uses such as plant watering or heat it on the stove or in the microwave.
- Avoid rinsing dishes before placing them in the dishwasher; just remove large particles of food.
- Avoid using running water to thaw meat or other frozen foods. Defrost food overnight in the refrigerator or use the defrosting setting on the microwave.
Laundry:
- Operate automatic clothes washers only when they are fully loaded or set the water level for the size of hour load.
Outside Water Conservation Tips
General Items:
- Check your well pump (if you have one) periodically. If the automatic pump turns on and off while water is not being used, there is a leak which needs to be fixed.
- Plant native and/or drought-tolerant grasses, ground covers, shrubs and trees. Once established, they will not need water as frequently and usually will survive dry spells.
- Install irrigation devices that are the most water efficient for each use. Micro and drip irrigation and soak-er hoses are examples of efficient devices.
- Use mulch to retain moisture in the soil. Mulch helps to control weeds that compete with landscape plants for water.
- Avoid installing ornamental water features (fountains) unless they use recycle water.
Car Washing:
- Use a shut-off nozzle that can be adjusted down to a fine spray on the hose.
- Use a commercial car was that recycles water. If you wash your own car, park on the grass so that you will be watering it at the same time.
Lawn Care:
- Avoid over watering your lawn.
- Water in several short sessions rather than one long one, in order for your lawn to better absorb moisture.
- Position sprinklers so water lands on the lawn and shrubs and not on paved areas.
- Avoid sprinklers that have a fine mist. Mist evaporate before it reaches the lawn.
- Raise the lawn mower blade to at least three inches or to its highest level. A higher cut encourages grass roots to grow deeper, shades the root system, and hold soil moisture.
- Plant drought-resistant lawn seed.
- Avoid over-fertilizing the lawn. Applying fertilizer increases the need for water. Apply fertilizers that contain slow-release, water-insoluble forms of nitrogen.
- Use a broom or blower instead of a hose to clean leaves and other debris from your driveway or sidewalk.
- Avoid leaving sprinklers or hoses unattended. A garden hose can pour out 600 gallons or more in only a few hours.
Pool:
- Install a new water-saving pool filter. A single back flushing with a traditional filter uses 180-250 gallons of water.
- Cover poos and spas to reduce evaporation of water.
Source: “Are You Ready”. FEMA # IS 22 / August, 2004
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Get Away Disaster Kit For The Family.
December 13th, 2007 Categories: Neighbor Helping Neighbor
FEMA (Federal Emergency Management Agency) has produced a book “Are You Ready? An In-Depth Guide to Citizen Preparedness” out-lining the most recent emergency education information available at this time.
The guide is designed to help individuals learn how to protect themselves and their families against all types of hazards. Listed below is the recommended disaster supplies kit that should be assembled and available in the event of an emergency.
- Three-day supply of non-perishable food.
- Three-day supply of water. One gallon per person, per day.
- Portable, battery-powered radio or television and extra batteries.
- Flashlight and extra batteries.
- First aid kit and manual.
- Sanitation and hygiene items (moist towelettes and toilet paper).
- Matches and waterproof container.
- Whistle.
- Extra clothing.
- Kitchen accessories and cooking utensils, including can opener.
- Photocopies of credit and identification cards.
- Cash and coins.
- Special needs items, such as prescription medications, eye glasses, contact lens solution, and hearing aid batteries.
- Items for infants, such as formula, diapers, bottles, and pacifiers.
- Other items to meet your unique family needs.
If you live in a cold climate, you must think about warmth. It is possible that you will not have heat. Think about your clothing and bedding supplies. Be sure to include one complete change of clothing and shoes per person, including:
- Jacket or coat.
- Long pants.
- Long sleeve shirt.
- Sturdy shoes.
- Hat, mittens, and scarf.
- Sleeping bag or warm blanket (per person).
Keep your assembled emergency kit in a safe place and constantly maintain its contents. Listed below is a guide to keep the family supplies ready and in good condition.
- Keep canned foods in a dry place where the temperature is cool.
- Store boxed food in tightly closed plastic or metal containers to protect from pests and to extend its shelf life.
- Throw out any canned good that becomes swollen, dented or corroded.
- Use foods before they go bad, replace them with fresh supplies.
- Place new items at the back of the storage area and older ones in front.
- Change stored food and water supplies every six months. Be sure to write the date you store it on all containers.
- Re-think your needs every year and update your kit as your family needs change.
- Keep items in airtight plastic bags and put your entire disaster supplies kit in one or two easy-to-carry containers, such as an unused trashcan, camping backpack or a duffel bag.
Consider the following items when putting food supplies together.
- Avoid foods that will make you thirsty. Choose salt free crackers, whole grain cereals, and canned foods with high liquid content.
- Stock canned foods, dry mixes, and other staples that do not require refrigeration, cooking, water, or special preparation. You may already have many of these on hand.
- Include any special dietary needs.
Data Source: FEMA: “Are You Ready”. IS-22 / August 2004.
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Save Yourself First. Then Others.
December 12th, 2007 Categories: Neighbor Helping Neighbor
Neighborhood Safety Net
Neighborhood Safety Net addresses the tremendous need to assist people to attain a higher degree of self-sufficiency, and to deal with disasters, in an effective program.
I became a sponsor for my immediate neighborhood network after witnessing the inaction of the people living in New Orleans who appeared to be frozen and unable to help themselves. They relied instead on local, state and federal agencies to step in and do everything.
That is not going to happen at least immediately. In a crisis individuals will have to do things for themselves. As the Neighborhood Safety Network program tells us, your obligation is to protect yourself and family first. Once your family is safe then help your immediate neighbor and the elderly. Continue this until all in the neighborhood are accounted for.
Know ahead of time what you have to do. Know where can go and know what assets the neighborhood has to work with. Know who has power saws; trucks; who is a nurse or doctor; what is the emergency police and fire department frequency.
You have to know before hand and not after a disaster occurs. Listed below are the highlights of the program and it is recommended that each neighborhood has their own safety net.
Key Features of the Program.
- Organized Social Interaction
- Evacuation Planning and Drills
- Upwards of 10% reduction in Crime
- Disaster Preparedness Program
- Emergency Communication System
Social Interaction.
Neighbors get to meet and interact with each other – in person at Neighbor Get-Togethers; at safety preparation days; online; as team members.
Neighbor Get-Together – regular events, at neighbors homes, for acquainting, socializing, education.
Safety Preparation Days – set-aside time to work on the reality of making preparedness happen.
Online – interact in a face-based private system – post announcements, share calendars, etc. Team Members – safety teams work together to help prepare themselves, and the neighborhood.
Evacuation Planning and Drills.
Over 60% of residents aren’t ready for emergencies at all, and the rest are basically ill prepared. We guide residents to work with each other, know their own needs, and to be able to act without direction, if need be. Each resident learns how to use their ‘Resource and Needs’ list for emergency first aid, and knows how to use their FRS/GMRS radio back-up system for coordination with, or direction from – Information Officers, City Managers, First Responders, Incident Commanders… Residents learn about the 4 Evacu-Kits – what they are composed of, and how to use them. They log their ICE (In Case of Emergency) numbers into all phones for additional coordination, and they use the evac-link private communications system as the key point to obtain any and all messages from disaster, safety and public officials – before, during and after a disaster – specific to their neighborhood; it’s totally unique. Everyone’s in the loop.
Upwards of 10% reduction in Crime.
It’s been documented that just through sending email notifications of crime trends and scams, to a limited number of Neighborhood Watch participants, that crime goes down roughly 6% vis-à-vis similar areas of the same cities, where this email notification is not used. As our CECAS feature adds another powerful element to crime notifications, we expect that reduction in crime to be 10% or more. Instead of reaching a tiny percentage of each neighborhood, this information will reach the majority of people. Everyone has a hand in crime reduction, and now you have an effective way to make it real.
Disaster Preparedness Program.
Disaster preparedness training is provided ongoing, and in ‘bite size’ components, in various settings, and with a number of trainers with expertise in the ‘what, where, when and how’. Together with creative data culled from hundreds or resources, you will now find that ‘there really is a way’ to effectively prepare – and also to have fun doing so!
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Ignore Home Permits and Pay….Big Time
December 12th, 2007 Categories: Buyer and Seller Knowledge Center
Often people do work on their home (add a room; change the garage into a family room or TV room) without getting a permit for the work. When the property is put on the market to sell, the seller must inform the buyer that the expansion and other home improvements were done with or without a permit(s).
If there is no permit this can create a problem for the buyer because:
(a) if they accept and purchase the property knowing about the absence of permits, they in turn become responsible for the lack of a permit if one is needed in the future;
(b) and when the property is appraised the un-permitted work will not be included in the appraisal.
If the buyer insists on purchasing the property without the required permits than they should negotiate a significant purchase discount for the risk they will undertake.
Expensive and Difficult
The resolution to the problem can be expensive and difficult. The City/County planning department can:
- Have the un-permitted work torn down and have you re-do the improvements.
- Or the City/County inspectors can have you tear down part of the improvements (ie., some walls) to view the electrical and other utility items for inspection.
- Or the City/County can accept everything as is and have you apply for a permit but hit you with a fine (maybe upward of 2-5 times the original permit feed) and other costs for failing to get a permit.
Being Quiet Will Not Help
Should the seller be mute on the subject (ie., not tell the buyer of the un-permitted work) they expose themselves to a possible (future) law suit. If the lending company is unaware of the un-permitted work (which should not occur), they too can take legal action against both the buyer, seller and possibly the appraiser and it could extend to the listing/selling real estate broker/agent and title company.
When it becomes a legal situation the old adage rules: “Throw mud against the wall and see what sticks” knowing full well that someone has to pay.
Big Brother
Of course when the assessor is made aware of the increased floor space the home owner will be exposed to an adjusted property tax increase and possibly the assessor may seek payment of back taxes.
By not obtaining the permits one can face severe and costly remedial consequences to resolve the situation. One may save a penny upfront but it could be costly in the future.
I think it is safe to say that getting the permits upfront is far cheaper than the added headaches incurred by not having them.
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Embrace her with a Diamond? No…Why Not An Outstanding Kitchen Counter Top!
December 12th, 2007 Categories: Home Fixin's, Findings and Planting
The kitchen in many people’s mind is the most important room in the house. At least for women (men think the garage is). In fact great strides have been taken with new homes and up-graded homes to make the kitchen an award winning epic center.
So if you want to shine in her eyes think about a new kitchen counter top. The choices and colors are abundant.
The Metals ….
Metal in now in vogue. Pricey, yes. From about $ 175-$ 500 per linear foot installed. Pewter is very upscale but the one’s that tend to be the most fashionable are stainless steel and copper (for the country style kitchen motif). Cleaning is a breeze. Alcohol is the cleaner of choice preventing smudges and surface germs.
Oh, back to copper. Stains and imperfections make copper look more stylish. Often copper is burned and chemically aged for various looks.
Natural Stone….
Stone is expensive ranging in price from $ 100 to $ 600 per linear foot installed. Choices in this area include marble, soapstone, basalt, Jerusalem stone and Lavastone (this can be extremely pricey). Stay away from cleaners that will leave a waxy finish on the surface.
Glass….
Glass is durable, tempered and heat resistant and cleans well. Price ranges for $ 100 to $ 300 per linear foot installed. This material however shows smudges and fingerprints quite readily. Cleaning is often with vinegar and water just like one would do with windows.
Concrete….
Almost anything you want to do can be done with concrete. Dye it…you bet. BUT (you know that was coming) concrete has to have sealer and must be sealed or waxed two to three times a year. Acids tend to be harmful to concrete so one has to be careful and wipe off any acid juices quickly (orange and lemon juice for example). Prices range between $ 100 to $ 200 per linear foot installed.
Manufactured Quartz…..
Quartz mixed with resin becomes a very hard non-porous surface that is stain resistant. Sealant not required. Soap and water does the trick when cleaning. Price range is $ 90 to $ 270 installed.
Solid surfaces…..
Synthetic, seamless surfaces, made of non-porous resin are known as Corian, CaesarStone and Avonite (brand names). These are priced between $ 80 to $ 135 per linear foot installed. These surfaces may have a tendency to stain which can be cleaned with a rub out cleaner. Surfaces are heat resistant BUT most manufactures suggest not setting hot pans on them.
Granite…..
Price between $ 75 and $ 250 this is a very popular material for counter use and has an extensive array of patterns. Granite must be sealed once per year. The lighter slabs are less porous than the darker (black) slabs.
Butcher block…….
This is high density wood that has been laminated together to create a tough, lasting surface which is quite porous (compared to other materials). Sealed with mineral oil; stains can be sand paper out. Tends to collect micro-organism quickly if not maintained properly. Butcher block is priced between $ 50 to $ 150 per linear foot installed.
Ceramic tile……
Tiles are durable and heat resistant and come in an array of colors and styles. Grout between the tiles has to be sealed at least twice a year. Prices range between $ 30 to $ 150 per linear foot.
Laminates…..
These are available in a wide range of color and patterns. Quite easy to install. Very durable but the surface can be cut or gouged. Keep chemical and abrasive cleaners away from the material. Hot pans will scorch the surface. Prices range between $ 20 to $ 100 installed.
So embrace and bedazzle your love one with a kitchen counter top that shows that you care. Just like “diamonds” are a girl’s best friend. Well OK, maybe that is a stretch. You just may end up doing both.
Data Sources: HGTV.com and Los Angeles Times (Sunday, Nov. 18, 2007).
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Historical Home Styles in Ventura County
December 9th, 2007 Categories: Historical Community Homes
Architectural style is a way of classifying architecture that gives emphasis to characteristic features such as design, materials, time period, region or form.
Viewing broadly home styles by time period we will find that:
- Between 1880 through the 1890’s the architectural styles favored were Greek Revival, Queen Ann (Victorian class) and Italianate.
- Between 1900 through the 1920’s French Provincial, Normandy, Spanish and Tudor were the styles of the time.
- In the 1930’s Bungalows was the favor of the day.
- The 1940’s represented the Cape Cod era.
- Early Ranch came on the scene in the 1950’s.
- The ranch style continued into the 1960’s as well as the introduction of the ranch split level.
- In 1970’s Shed and the New England Colonial were the styles introduced.
- From 1980 to the current period neo-electric styles have come into vogue.
Using these time periods, Ventura County has some great homes that were built in the era’s referenced and listed below are some of these homes and a history of the home.
Queen Ann
The Queen Ann, a sub-style of the Victorian era, is a collection of coquettish detailing and eclectic materials. Steep cross-garbled roofs, towers, and vertical windows typify the Queen Ann. Multistory floor plans often include projecting wings, several porches and balconies, and multiple chimneys.
Wooden ginger bread trim scrolled and rounded “fish-scale” patterns frequently grace the gables and porches. Massive cut stone foundations are typical of period houses. The style was popularized after the Civil War by architect Henry Hobson Richardson and found favor in the South and West.
Cape Cod
The original colonial Cape Cod homes were shingle-sided, one story cottages with no dormers. In the mid-20th century, the Cape Cod shape became very popular in many suburban developments. During this period the Cape Cod took on a square or rectangular shape with one or one-and-half stories with steep pitched, gabled roofs. Dormers and shutters were an option and the siding usually was clapboard or brick.
The Colonial
During the late 1800’s throughout the 20th century builders borrowed Colonial ideas to create refined Revival homes with elegant central hallways and elaborate cornices. These revival homes are often white clapboard siding with black or green shutters.
The original Colonial usually was a rectangular, symmetrical home with bedrooms on the second floor. Normally they would have double hung windows having equally sized square panes. Take offs of the Colonial also include the Saltbox, Georgian and the Dutch Colonial.
The Contemporary
The Contemporary came on the scene between 1950 to 1970 and were of two types, the flat roof and the gabled type. The gabled is characterized by exposed open beams. Generally both of these types were single story homes.
Often the Contemporary is of odd size, with tall windows and lack ornamentation. The wall materials that set them apart was stone, brick and wood.
The Craftsman
Called the simplist house form by Gustav Stickley, it’s low, broad proportions and absolute lack of ornamentation gives it a character so natural and unaffected that it seems to blend in with the landscape (words by Gustav Stickley in the magazine The Craftsman).
The Craftsman style has also been billed as the “California Bungalow (by architects Charles Sumner Greene and Henry Mather Greene) featured overhanging eaves, a low-slung gabled roof, wide porches framed by pedestal-like tapered columns. Materials often included stone, rough-hewn wood and stucco.
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Who, When, What, Why A Supplemental Real Estate Tax
December 7th, 2007 Categories: Taxes, Taxes and Taxes
When……
The California State Law was changed July 1, 1983 requiring the reassessment of property as of the first day of the month following an ownership change or the completion of a new construction.
How Much…….
The assessor determines the new value of the property based on current market conditions. An evaluation is made of the variance between the new value and the previous value, the result is the supplemental assessment.
Multiple assessments are possible….
Multiple assessments are possible depending on when ownership changed or when construction was completed. Because property is assesses each January 1 for the upcoming fiscal year (July 1 thru June 30), a supplemental tax bill will be made if the change in property value was recorded on the tax roll between June 1 and December 31.
A second supplement will be issued if the change of property is recorded on the tax roll between January 1 and May 31.
Appeals…..
Any assessment can be appealed. The first step is to take it to the assessor to see if that office will change the valuation. Additionally, the Board of Supervisors (in most communities) has established an Assessment Appeals Board for the purpose of resolving valuation problems in connection with supplemental tax bills.
Critical is that applications for appeal must be filed within 60 days of the mailing date shown on the tax bill.
Even if you appeal one is still obligated to pay the tax installments in full by the appropriate deadline. If your appeal is granted, a refund will be issued.
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Main Street….Union Oil
December 5th, 2007 Categories: Main Street and Major Businesses
Go West Young Man….
In the early 1880’s Wallace Hardison and Lyman Stewart, oil men from Pennsylvania came to California with their inventions which improved drilling techniques needed to penetrate irregular rock formations to drill for oil at great depths.
The Beginning Of Change….
In 1886, the Hardison and Stewart Oil Company moved from the Newhall area and established headquarters in Santa Paula. It was at this time that the first oil pipeline was built from Newhall to Ventura for oil shipments to San Francisco in barrels by railroad.
The Hardison and Stewart Oil Company barely stayed above water as a business until 1888 when a well in Adams Canyon (called Wild Bill) started to produce 500 barrels of oil per day. This was described as the first California gusher.
Inventiveness And Persuasion……
The Hardison and Stewart Oil Company was still cash poor because of the high transportation cost of shipping oil but their properties were appraised at $ 1,800,000. They still pursued expansion and in association with Thomas Bard organized the Torrey Canyon Oil Company. It was at this time that Lyman Stewart built and designed the first rail oil tanker to ship bulk oil to northern markets.
Shipping cost were drastically reduced from $ 1.00 per barrel to 30 cents a barrel. A significant savings for the company and the first major step in marketing its product and show savings to other businesses that oil was far better economically than coal.
Birth Of A Company: Union Oil; Birth Of A City: Santa Paula…….
Recognizing the combined wealth the three business men decided to merge all operations into what is now the Union Oil Company (October 17, 1890). The corporations first president was Thomas Bard as president, with Lyman Stewart vice president and Wallace Hardison as treasurer.
Between 1890 until 1900 Santa Paula was prospering with brick and stone building being built along with schools and enjoying the drama of traveling theatrical groups and minstrel shows. In the latter part of the 1890’s Santa Paula people were talking over the telephone and starting to travel roads by automobile.
So was the start of things to come nationally with oil and the expansion of Santa Paula into orange orchards and field crops.
Sources and References:
(a) Images of America Santa Paula by Mary Alice Orcutt Henderson.
(b) A History of Santa Paula From Metates to Macadam by The Santa Paula Historical Society.
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